How to Buy a Persian Setar: A Beginner’s Guide (2026)
If you are ready to buy your first Persian setar, the decision comes down to a few clear factors: the wood and build quality, the fretting, the body size, and the maker’s craftsmanship — all balanced against your budget. The setar is one of the most intimate and delicate instruments in Persian classical music, and a well-made one will reward you for a lifetime. This guide walks you through exactly what to look for, sets out realistic price tiers, and recommends where to start.
TL;DR — What to Look For
- Strings: a modern setar has four strings (despite the name meaning “three strings”).
- Frets: 22–28 movable gut or nylon frets, tied around the neck so you can adjust the microtones of Persian music.
- Wood: a mulberry (tut) soundboard is the classic choice; bodies are mulberry, walnut or maple.
- Technique: played with the bare nail of the right index finger — no plectrum.
- Best first setar: a hand-made, solid-wood beginner instrument with tied frets and a proper case.
- Price range: roughly €250 for a solid beginner setar up to €700+ for professional instruments.
What Is a Setar, and Why Is It Special?
The setar is a long-necked lute from the tanbur family, at the heart of Persian classical music and Sufi tradition. Its name comes from the Persian se (three) and tar (string), but the modern instrument has four strings — a fourth was famously added in the eighteenth century. It is played not with a plectrum but with the bare nail of the right index finger, which gives it a soft, introspective voice unlike any other lute. That quiet intimacy is exactly why players love it: the setar is an instrument for close listening, meditation and solo Persian classical performance.
Key Criteria to Evaluate
Wood and body
The soundboard is the single most important part of a setar. Aged mulberry (tut) is the traditional choice, prized for a warm, resonant tone that opens up as the instrument is played in. Bowls are built from mulberry, walnut or maple, either carved from a single piece or assembled from multiple ribs. Well-seasoned, cleanly finished wood matters far more than decoration.
Strings and frets
A modern setar carries four strings, usually tuned in a configuration such as C–C–G–C. The 22–28 frets are tied around the neck with gut or nylon rather than fixed with metal, so they can be nudged to produce the microtonal intervals essential to the Persian dastgah modal system. On a good instrument the frets are evenly spaced and hold their position.
Craftsmanship
Look for clean joinery, an even soundboard grain, a straight neck, and frets that sit firmly without buzzing. On a hand-made instrument these details determine both tone and playability, and they are the clearest signal of a maker’s skill.
Body size and tone
Body size shapes the voice: a smaller body sounds brighter and more focused, while a larger body gives more depth and warmth. Neither is “better” — it is a matter of the sound you prefer and the repertoire you play.
Included accessories
A setar is fragile, so a proper protective case is essential rather than optional. Check whether a hard case and spare strings are included, especially if the instrument will travel.
Setar Price Tiers
| Tier | Typical price | What you get | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beginner | ~€250 | Hand-made solid-wood setar, tied frets, playable tone | First-time players |
| Intermediate | ~€300–€550 | Better wood selection, refined build, often with case | Committed learners |
| Professional | ~€600–€850 | Premium aged wood, master craftsmanship, superior resonance | Advanced and performing players |
The shourangiz, a close relative of the setar with a larger, often skin-faced body and a fuller sound, sits at the upper end and is worth considering if you want more volume and depth.
Which Setar Should You Buy?
For most beginners, a hand-made solid-wood setar around €250 is the right starting point — enough quality to sound and play well, without over-investing before you know the instrument. Committed learners who already play another instrument can jump to an intermediate model for better wood and finish. Advanced players and performers should audition professional instruments, where aged wood and master craftsmanship make an audible difference. Avoid the temptation of the very cheapest “setars,” which are often thin, poorly fretted and disheartening to learn on.
Our Recommendations
Every setar we sell is hand-built by Iranian luthiers and inspected before dispatch:
- Beginner Persian Setar by Diba — a hand-made maple-bowl lute and our recommended first setar.
- Persian Setar by Davood Fashi — a mixed-wood setar with a mulberry soundboard, a strong step up in tone.
- Professional Setar by Hamid — premium craftsmanship with a hard case for advanced players.
- Persian Shourangiz — the fuller-voiced relative for players who want more depth.
Browse the full range on our Persian setar collection page. Worldwide shipping & 15-day return apply to every instrument.
Red Flags to Avoid
From our workshop: the most common mistake we see is buying on price alone. Watch for a warped or bowed neck, frets that buzz or slide out of place, a dull or lifeless soundboard, and glued-on decoration hiding rough construction. A slightly higher spend on a properly built, solid-wood instrument pays back immediately in tone and playability — a bad setar teaches you bad habits and rarely improves.
How to Tune and Start Learning
A common setar tuning is C–C–G–C, though players adjust it to suit the dastgah they are studying. Because the frets are tied, part of learning the setar is learning to set those microtonal intervals by ear. From there, the best paths in are private lessons, structured online courses, and close listening to master recordings — the same route generations of Persian players have taken. To understand the modal framework behind the tuning, read our guide to Persian dastgahs and avaz.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many strings does a setar have?
A modern Persian setar has four strings, even though the name means “three strings.” A fourth string was added in the eighteenth century and is now standard. Two of the four are often tuned in unison and act as a single voice.
Is the setar good for beginners?
Yes. The setar is quiet and gentle on the fingers, and a well-made beginner instrument around €250 is very approachable. The main learning curve is the bare-nail playing technique and the microtonal frets, both of which come with practice.
What wood is a setar made from?
The soundboard is traditionally aged mulberry (tut) for its warm resonance, while the bowl is built from mulberry, walnut or maple. Quality, well-seasoned wood is more important than any single species.
How is the setar played?
The setar is played with the bare nail of the right index finger, using a rapid up-and-down stroke rather than a plectrum. This is what gives the instrument its soft, intimate sound.
What is the difference between a setar and a shourangiz?
The shourangiz is a close relative of the setar with a larger, often skin-faced body and a fuller, louder tone. The setar is quieter and more introspective; the shourangiz suits players who want more volume and depth.
How much should I spend on my first setar?
Around €250 buys a solid, hand-made beginner setar that will sound and play well. Spending less usually means poor fretting and thin tone, while intermediate and professional instruments (€300–€850) reward more committed players.
The setar is a lifelong companion once it is in your hands. When you are ready, explore our hand-built Persian setar collection, or read more about the wider family of Persian instruments and the related Persian santur.
Published by Tapadum Ethnic Music Store — reviewed by our Persian instrument specialists. Worldwide shipping & 15-day return.