How to Replace Santur Strings: Tools, Tuning and Practical Advice

Learning how to replace santur strings is one of the most useful maintenance skills a player can develop. A broken string does not normally mean replacing the complete set. In most cases, you can replace only the damaged wire, tune it carefully and continue using the remaining strings for a long time.

This guide is based on the practical experience of Ozgur Yalcin, founder of Tapadum and the Kara Gunes music group. He began playing santur with Kara Gunes around twenty years ago and has since worked with the instrument as a musician, curator and retailer.

“Santur strings can last for a long time. Most replacements are local: one string breaks during playing, so you replace that string. A complete restringing is normally needed only after a very long period, when the wires have visibly darkened or begun to corrode.”

What tools do you need to replace a santur string?

Keep four things close to the instrument before beginning:

• Correct replacement wire: match the material and diameter already used on that course.
• Small pliers: for cutting the wire and forming the hook at its anchored end.
• Santur tuning key: for turning and seating the tuning pin.
• A tuner: for bringing the new wire to the intended note without guessing at tension.

Tapadum’s current santur accessory range includes 0.40 mm silver-coloured and bronze-coloured wire, as well as a dedicated santur tuning key. However, do not assume that one material, diameter or tuning plan suits every santur. Match the existing instrument or follow its maker’s specification.

For tuning, Tapadum Tuner lets you create and save a custom tuning. This is especially useful for a santur because players may use their own note layout or makam-based setup rather than a single universal preset.

Do you need to replace all four strings in a course?

No. A Persian santur commonly groups multiple strings at one pitch, but one broken string does not make the remaining wires unusable. If one wire in a four-string course breaks during a performance, Ozgur notes that it is possible to finish the performance with the remaining three. Replace the broken wire at the first suitable opportunity.

Changing only the failed wire is normally enough. A full set becomes reasonable when age and surface condition affect many wires together—for example, when they have darkened substantially or begun to show corrosion. This avoids unnecessary work and preserves stable strings that are still performing well.

Bronze and silver-coloured santur strings

From the seated player’s viewpoint, the yellow or bronze strings are on the right and serve the bass register. They run as a single longer speaking section. The white or silver-coloured strings are used for higher notes.

On the white-string section, the notes heard on the two sides of a correctly positioned bridge are an octave apart. This relationship is important during setup: if one side does not produce the expected octave, the bridge position needs to be checked before the tuning is treated as complete.

Wire colour is a useful visual guide, but it is not a complete specification. When ordering replacement wire, confirm the material, diameter and arrangement used on your particular instrument.

How to replace a broken santur string step by step

1. Confirm the wire and target note

Identify the broken string, its course, its material and the note it must reach. Look at the existing winding and anchor points before removing any remaining wire. If you are uncertain about the instrument’s layout, photograph it first and ask the maker or an experienced santur technician.

2. Check the bridge position

Before tensioning a new wire, confirm that the relevant bridge is in the correct place. Santur bridges are mobile. They may shift slightly during playing, transport or previous tuning. Final pitch depends on both string tension and speaking length, so tuning a wire against a misplaced bridge can lead you in the wrong direction.

For the white strings, use a tuner to check that the notes on the two sides of the bridge form the intended octave. Move a bridge only when you understand the instrument’s layout, and release tension sufficiently before making a significant correction.

3. Cut the wire to length

If you do not have a prepared replacement, measure from the left-hand anchor pin to the tuning-pin side. Cut the wire with approximately 4–5 cm of extra length. The extra material is needed to form the hook and create a secure winding, but excessive surplus can produce too many turns around the tuning pin.

4. Form a closed hook

Bend the wire near its end. Hold the bend firmly with the pliers, then rotate the free end around the standing wire at least seven or eight times. The turns should sit tightly and evenly beside one another, forming a closed hook rather than a loose open loop.

Inspect the hook before installing it. A rough end should not point toward the soundboard or sit where it can catch a hand, cloth or neighbouring wire.

5. Attach the hook and route the wire

Place the closed hook over the matching pin on the left side. Lead the wire along its correct path toward the tuning-pin side, keeping it in the intended bridge and nut position. Check that it has not crossed another wire.

6. Pass the wire through the tuning pin

Feed the free end through the hole in the correct tuning pin. Remove obvious slack while keeping enough control to guide the first turns. The wire should not be trapped sharply at the hole or kinked against the pin.

7. Wind in a neat line

Turn the pin with the tuning key and guide the wire so that the coils form an orderly line. Avoid leaving so much extra wire that the pin collects a bulky stack of overlapping turns. Excessive or untidy winding can contribute to unstable tuning and can force the wire into an awkward angle at the pin hole.

8. Seat the tuning pin while increasing tension

As you turn the tuning key, press it gently inward so the pin seats securely in its hole. Pressing while turning is the safer method. A very light inward tap with the tuning key may also help seat a loose pin, but it must never become a hard blow.

Increase tension gradually. Do not judge tightness by hand feel alone; watch the tuner and stop at the intended pitch. If the pitch will not hold, first check whether the pin is seated before adding more tension.

9. Recheck the route, bridge and octave

Once the string approaches pitch, check the complete route again: hook, coils, pin hole, bridge contact and neighbouring wires. On the white-string section, confirm the octave relationship across the bridge. Make small final tuning corrections rather than one large pull.

Why does a new santur string go out of tune?

A newly installed wire settles more readily than an established one, so some early retuning is normal. Instability can also come from a tuning pin that has not seated firmly or from untidy winding around the pin.

If a new string repeatedly slips, press the tuning key inward gently while making the correction. A light tap can be used without excessive force, but pressing is safer and should be tried first. If the pin remains loose, stop. Repairing the pin hole or changing the pin fit is repair work and should be left to an experienced instrument maker.

Choosing and caring for zahme

A spare pair of zahme is essential because their slender shape makes them one of the accessories most likely to break. Traditional zahme need a strong, resilient wood: thin construction provides speed and flexibility, but unsuitable wood will not tolerate repeated impact.

Traditional Persian zahme and hammered dulcimer sticks use different grips and playing movements. Neither is automatically right for every player. If possible, try both and notice how the weight, balance, rebound and grip change your articulation. For a detailed comparison, read Persian Zahme vs. Hammered Dulcimer Sticks.

Felt on the striking end softens the contact between wood and wire. A felted zahme usually produces a softer, cleaner attack; without felt, wood meets metal directly and produces a clearer, harder edge. Both colours can be musically useful. The choice depends on the player, the repertoire and the sound required.

Basic care for santur wire and wood

After playing, wipe strings and frequently touched surfaces with a clean, soft, dry cloth. Keep the instrument in stable indoor conditions and protect it from moisture, direct heat, strong sunlight and sudden changes of temperature. Avoid oils, alcohol and general-purpose chemical cleaners unless the maker has specifically approved a product for that santur.

The same principle applies to storage: aim for a stable, comfortable environment rather than an extreme. Excess moisture encourages corrosion and can affect wood; excessively dry or hot conditions can also stress wooden parts. A case protects the instrument from dust and accidental contact, but it does not make an unsuitable room safe.

What can a player do, and what should go to a maker?

Routine tuning and replacing an individual broken string are useful player skills. Structural and fitting repairs should be left to a professional. This includes cracks, open joints, damaged bridges, persistent tuning-pin problems, altered pin holes and any intervention that changes the structure of the instrument.

“Learn to tune and replace a string calmly. If the problem is a repair rather than routine maintenance, stop and give the instrument to someone who understands santur construction.”

Frequently asked questions